Ameraucana Forum
The Official Ameraucana Forum => Housing, Health & Hatching => Topic started by: Russ Blair on January 17, 2016, 03:11:47 PM
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Allright since winter is finally here in SE Michigan and it is now to cold outside for much. I am debating building myself a 3 tray hatcher. It will be based on dimensions similar to a Dickey. Mainly because my incubator came with a hatching tray I never use. Plus they sell metal hatching trays with lids for $36, so I only need 2 more to make it 3 tray. Now for your input, I found a proportional thermostat, heater and fan kit for $190 roughly with 2 fans. Has anybody ever used these or know of anybody ?? Here's the link
http://incubatorwarehouse.com/incukit-xl.html
I think I can build it with hatching trays, hardware, plywood etc for around $350. Which is $300 cheaper than what the Dickey 5 tray hatcher sells for. Not including the shipping etc.
Second question, they suggest mounting on the top pointing down? To me it would make more sense to mount on the back. Pointing toward the front with the humidity pan in front of them? That's how my Dickey and the GQF are set up I believe? Just seems you would circulate air better that way. Oh it will be made out of plywood and painted with an exterior white paint I have left over from rental house. Any input and suggestions welcome, who knows if the hatcher works out next year it may be a setter DIY project lol
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I'm about to embark on a similar project. I just finished a setter that I patterned after my 1202 but used 6 trays instead of 3 (it's 48" tall, rather than 30"). I bought a lot of the parts from Dickeys.
I bought some used hatching baskets from Hawkhead. They are 17x48. I was going to make a hatcher of those dimensions, but that seems too big, so I'm going to try to cut one and make 2, 17x24 baskets, then build the hatcher around that with 4 of the smaller baskets.
My main concern is that it is easy to clean, my current hatcher is a breeze to clean and I would really miss that if I can't get this one clean.
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I'm about to embark on a similar project. I just finished a setter that I patterned after my 1202 but used 6 trays instead of 3 (it's 48" tall, rather than 30"). I bought a lot of the parts from Dickeys.
I bought some used hatching baskets from Hawkhead. They are 17x48. I was going to make a hatcher of those dimensions, but that seems too big, so I'm going to try to cut one and make 2, 17x24 baskets, then build the hatcher around that with 4 of the smaller baskets.
My main concern is that it is easy to clean, my current hatcher is a breeze to clean and I would really miss that if I can't get this one clean.
They are probably the same hatch baskets I bought from Hawkhead also. Photos of the hatchers I built around them are in the topic the link, below, points to. I can post more photos and dimensions if requested. http://ameraucanaalliance.org/forum/index.php?topic=130.0
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I like that them hatch baskets are plastic instead of Galvanized metal. John do they have lids for them? Or did you just space them so the basket above serves as a lid concept? Being plastic would make them easy to sanitize and last longer I bet?
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I spaced them, but they are designed to stack on top one another and that would be an easier way to go. When we toured McMurray I noticed they cut one down to use as a cover for the top basket of a stack of them so the chicks couldn't get out.
http://www.hatcheryequipment.com/hatcher_j.html
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Several years ago, I came across a good deal on three GQF cabinets. Two incubators and a hatcher. All electronic thermostats with wafer backup. They were originally designed for ostrich/emu eggs. I bought them for $200 each. They had only been used once before the market on emu fell through. I cleaned them up and cut the windows in the doors. They have worked flawlessly every year.
As they age, I plan to build my own replacements using materials similar or the same as Johns. The dimensions will be pretty close to the GQF's. I may make them slightly taller to allow for one more rack. The new hatcher will be lined with LED lights on the inside for better viewing. I like this thermostat as well. Not that it's necessary but just for the added "bling". ;) http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=32&zenid=pgiega0tjtmasdsnvpi0ugbtb4l
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The controller is the same brand I used. I don't think that model was available when I built a few years ago.
Whether GQF or homemade, I suggest not using the GQF style electronic thermostats inside Hatcher cabinets (OK inside Setter cabinets). All the down/fuzz from the chicks gets into the units, thru little vent holes, and they don't last. Use compressed air to blow them out occasionally. They are expensive to keep replacing. Switch over to wafers or go with a controller that mounts outside the cabinet. Just my opinion from my experience with them.
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Good advice, I'm always going with external controllers. I believe that the temp control on hatchers does not need to be as accurate as on setters, is that true in your opinion?
I'm thinking about integrating an air filter of some sort on the hatcher. It would be coarse (not a HEPA-type, that would reduce the airflow). I pulled the plastic grid air filter from a dehumidifier I was throwing away. That looks like it would be perfect for catching chick dander without blocking the air flow too much. Has anyone tried filters in a hatcher? The fact that commercial ones don't have filters gives me pause.
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Since I only have the room for one larger unit, I'm running my Dickey cabinet model with just a wafer thermostat. The electronic job went bad after one year of use, so it is disabled. I do keep a replacement wafer on hand "just in case" but so far it has worked out fine. I had purchased one of those reptile incubators for a hatcher, but need to build some covered hatching trays for it. I was disappointed with its' lack of egg holding capacity, but it was on sale for only about $100 so am not out much. I may yet try it out this season. I thought about using a filter but did not try it, as I don't think the wafer thermostats are much affected by the fine dust anyway.
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Good advice, I'm always going with external controllers. I believe that the temp control on hatchers does not need to be as accurate as on setters, is that true in your opinion?
I'm thinking about integrating an air filter of some sort on the hatcher. It would be coarse (not a HEPA-type, that would reduce the airflow). I pulled the plastic grid air filter from a dehumidifier I was throwing away. That looks like it would be perfect for catching chick dander without blocking the air flow too much. Has anyone tried filters in a hatcher? The fact that commercial ones don't have filters gives me pause.
Dennis,
I wouldn't restrict the air flow at all with a filter or grille that dust/dander could buildup on. If your hatcher is in the house and the dust is a problem I suggest a separate air filtration/purifying system in the room near the hatcher.
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That's a good point. I inadvertently had some clogged air flow on my current hatcher. I was using 1/2" HW cloth to hold the element and dual fans. The duct actually clogged the 1/2" holes. I now realize I need to take the time to blow out the dust every few hatches.
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I have been experimenting the last few years with different materials for hatching tray liners. Leaving just the 1/4" wire mesh works but the cleanup after hatch is much worse with all that falls through the trays to the bottom. Paper towels keep it cleaner but they are too slick. I started getting chicks with spraddled legs. I ordered some of the GQF tray liners and they aren't much better than paper towels. They are kinda like the old paper grocery sacks.
The best thing I have found to work is shelf and drawer liners. You can cut them to fit and they give the chicks excellent footing. No more spraddle legs. They are machine washable so I just throw them in the washer after the hatch. I'll put the GQF liners under them until I use them up. They do help to keep the trays cleaner.
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I don't want to sound negative, but I would be concerned about cutting down on air flow with the liners. I see you have cutouts in the ends of the trays/baskets to help provide movement of air, but I believe you need more movement coming up from below the eggs so the bottoms of the eggs aren't warmer than the tops.
Consider the designs of all the egg trays for setters and hatch baskets for commercial hatchers. They provide maximum movement of air, without trapping it and yet support the eggs and chicks.
I think your shelf & drawer liners may work well in brooders for the first few days.
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I thought about the air flow issue but I figured if GQF was selling the paper liners then they must not be too concerned with it. I used the drawer liners by themselves all of last year without any problems. They are very porous like a heavy mesh. If I see any issues that may be related to air flow then I will stop using the paper liners. They just make cleanup a lot easier.
My suspicions were confirmed last night as I removed this weeks batch from the hatcher. There were no chicks with spraddled legs. The last four batches had at least three chicks each with the issue. Also, I didn't see any ill effects from using the paper liner under the drawer liner.
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They are very porous like a heavy mesh.
I couldn't see that from the other photo.
I've used the "DACB (Deotized Animal Cage Board)" drop pan liners in my table top brooder, but didn't know they were also selling it to use in their hatch trays.
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Yes, it's the same material, only they are pre-cut to fit the hatch trays...
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For those of you who may be a little overwhelmed or intimidated by the higher tech methods being presented, maybe this will provide some degree of comfort. I have found that a large cardboard box, the kind that appliances are packed in, work just find for brooders. Just make sure they are not lying flat on the floor, because air needs to circulate underneath for evaporation of moisture that goes through. They can be elevated off the floor with strips of wood, old wire or plastic freezer baskets, or whatever. I cover the top with a metal grating so the cats or other predators can not get through and suspend a simple incandescent bulb mounted inside a round metal reflector, the kind you can get at any feed or farm store. I always start a new batch off with a new long-life bulb, typically 75 or 100 watt. The reflector can be raised or lowered as needed with a wire or twine attached to the handle of the reflector and fastened to a wire hook on the other end. The hook can be made from a piece of wire, and where it is hooked to the grating determines how high or low the bulb is elevated. If it is cold, I slice open a plastic feed sack (or two depending on the size of the box) and lay it over the top, weighing it down with pieces of brick or wood. Some opening must be left for ventilation, or small holes can be cut in the cardboard box. I prefer to ventilate through the top by adjusting the placement of the feed sack to allow more or less of an opening. It's crude, but it works fine.
As far as slippage to prevent leg spraddling, I first put down clean newspaper on the bottom of the box, then a 2 or 3 inch layer of pine shavings, and over that I lay strips of those blue shop towels. They are super absorbant, and the chicks don't slip on them. After the shop towels are quite dirty I remove them, because by that time the chicks do well on the clean shavings underneath. I have raised thousands of chicks this way, and don't spend much money on equipment and supplies doing it. At the end of the season the boxes can be burned, or more often than that if you have a good supply of boxes. Eliminates the storage problem too. It works for me, but maybe I'm just too cheap to spend the money on fancier equipment.
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Just make sure they are not lying flat on the floor, because air needs to circulate underneath for evaporation of moisture that goes through.
Good point. This is very important. A few years ago, I picked up a metal container for free from my job to use as a brooder. It's about the size of a refrigerator. The metal bottom doesn't allow the moisture to wick away and evaporate. My thoughts were that the shavings would allow the moisture to escape, but only seemed to trap it inside. It didn't take long for coccidiosis to set in... I also use it to store all the chick feeders and waterers after the season is over.
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Mike's note is my method except for the blue shop towels & buying a new light each time. The former may be a good addition. I use it because it disposable and I have lots of cardboard boxes thanks to having to shopping online. The only addition I make is to put wire screens over the boxes so they don't fly out and they tend to do that after week 2. It's hard to find premade window screens these days, though WalMart has them, at least in this area, but we made some with metal grills for weight, adding screen fabric over them to minimize the gaps. I wash them in between hatches and then Tek Trol or Lysol them before drying.