Rooster with lack of breeding drive

[Patti Jordan]

I have one of my best roosters (3 years old)  who has shown no interest in breeding his hens the last two years.  I've swapped out girls last year hoping they would peak his interest, but that didn't work.  This year I've resorted to giving him testosterone pills and put him in with 2 hens who are subservient to him.  I move him out every few days but he still has no interest other than coming after me.  Last year he was in a breeding pen with no visibility to other roosters, this year he's next to a breeding pen.  Any advice - I really want a few offspring from him.  He's a nice healthy rooster with no obvious health issues.  Thanks

[John W Blehm]

Be sure that he is on a breeder ration and gets plenty of light (12 to 16 hours), the same as the females.  I've never used artificial insemination, but that may be worth a try with him.  It isn't difficult and there are helpful YouTube Videos, like this one.  Even if you don't want to try it I suggest stoking the male as they do with AI.  I generally do that with my males just before placing them in a coop with a female.  The added arousal can't hurt and I also sometimes carry them by coops with other females first knowing they are "visual" creatures, like men.     

[Patti Jordan]

Be sure that he is on a breeder ration and gets plenty of light (12 to 16 hours), the same as the females.  I've never used artificial insemination, but that may be worth a try with him.  It isn't difficult and there are helpful YouTube Videos, like this one.  Even if you don't want to try it I suggest stoking the male as they do with AI.  I generally do that with my males just before placing them in a coop with a female.  The added arousal can't hurt and I also sometimes carry them by coops with other females first knowing they are "visual" creatures, like men.   

Thanks John, currently he is on 20% protein crumble with occasional scratch/alfalfa.  The girls in with him are laying so I don't know if lighting is an issue as it doesn't appear to affect the other 8 roosters I have in breeding pens, I'm located south of PHX AZ.  Guess I'll try stoking to see if I can arouse him, anything is worth a try at this point, possibly AI.  I'll take a look at the video!  Thanks so much for you advice !

[The Malcolms]

Have you ever checked eggs for fertility anyway?  We have a rooster that we never see breed but all his eggs are fertile.  We think he breeds early in the morning.  Just a thought...

[Tailfeathers]

I was gonna suggest Viagra in his Wheaties but it looks like you've already gone there!  LOL  Wish I could offer ya some constructive advice but I've never that problem.  If I ever did I think I'd be concerned about it being hereditary and probably wouldn't push the issue.  I learned the hard way a long time ago to always keep at least one backup male. 

This is another good reason to always run at least 2 lines.  And keep at least 1 extra backup from each line.  A W and BW from each is a good way to go if ya can. 

[Patti Jordan]

Have you ever checked eggs for fertility anyway?  We have a rooster that we never see breed but all his eggs are fertile.  We think he breeds early in the morning.  Just a thought...

Yes I have, 4 individual sets now and all blanks out of approximately 50 eggs :-(

[Patti Jordan]

I was gonna suggest Viagra in his Wheaties but it looks like you've already gone there!  LOL  Wish I could offer ya some constructive advice but I've never that problem.  If I ever did I think I'd be concerned about it being hereditary and probably wouldn't push the issue.  I learned the hard way a long time ago to always keep at least one backup male. 

This is another good reason to always run at least 2 lines.  And keep at least 1 extra backup from each line.  A W and BW from each is a good way to go if ya can.

Hi Royce, I do have backup roosters but really wanted some offspring from this guy :-(  Funny thing I had him in with a different group of girls last year and he was fond of ONE of the girls and not the others.  I pulled out his favorite eventually because she wasn't the greatest specimen and he's not produced a single fertile egg since   I've seen him half attempt to cover the girls when you first put him in after a 3 day break, but he's not successful covering them then he just appears to give up on the whole idea.  Years back I did start with several different breeding lines too.  Just so frustrated with this guy and I really hate to cull him, but he's got to earn his keep.  I'll try John's idea and see if that doesn't motivate him. :-)

[Mike Gilbert]

Patti, did you check his vent area to make sure it is clean and not obstructed with a ball of manure or excess feathers?    Sometimes it helps to take a scissor and trim away those feathers above and below the vent.  Check for signs of mites at the same time, as a heavy infestation will drain them.  And I would try taking him away from all females for a period of about two weeks.
But Royce is right in that low vitality with no apparent causes may well be inheritable. 

[Cesar Villegas]

Good to see you on here Patti, we missed you at the Safford show.

I would try artificial insemination, its relatively easy. If anyone could do it, its you

[Patti Jordan]

Patti, did you check his vent area to make sure it is clean and not obstructed with a ball of manure or excess feathers?    Sometimes it helps to take a scissor and trim away those feathers above and below the vent.  Check for signs of mites at the same time, as a heavy infestation will drain them.  And I would try taking him away from all females for a period of about two weeks.
But Royce is right in that low vitality with no apparent causes may well be inheritable.

Highly doubt mites are my issue but I guess it's time for a little trim job, LOL  One of his hens went broody on me and now the other isn't laying, so I may have to introduce a new hen to him.  I agree, low vitality is a real reason for concern.  I was hoping to get a few offspring from him before culling, he's the rooster in my profile picture.  Thanks Mike !

[Patti Jordan]

Good to see you on here Patti, we missed you at the Safford show.

I would try artificial insemination, its relatively easy. If anyone could do it, its you

Great win for Marcia at the show :-)  Were there a lot of Ameraucanas shown ?  I just didn't have anything in condition to show as I started my breeding program early in hopes to shut it down early March.

[Cesar Villegas]

Good to see you on here Patti, we missed you at the Safford show.

I would try artificial insemination, its relatively easy. If anyone could do it, its you

Great win for Marcia at the show :-)  Were there a lot of Ameraucanas shown ?  I just didn't have anything in condition to show as I started my breeding program early in hopes to shut it down early March.

_
I believe there was 8 shown. Mary Hysong got Reserve Breed with her pullet(she got BB at the Tucson show) I knew Champion AOSB was going to go to a Sumatra so I was hoping Macrias cockerel would have gotten Reserve ASOB but it went to a single entered Malay. I think she got snubbed. I learned the judge use to raise Malays and was partial to them. His clerk was my friend and he agreed the Black Cockerel should have gotten Reserve AOSB, but oh well. It was a great show. The best bird won Show Champ

[John W Blehm]

Patti, did you check his vent area to make sure it is clean and not obstructed with a ball of manure or excess feathers?    Sometimes it helps to take a scissor and trim away those feathers above and below the vent.  Check for signs of mites at the same time, as a heavy infestation will drain them.  And I would try taking him away from all females for a period of about two weeks.
But Royce is right in that low vitality with no apparent causes may well be inheritable.

I'm not saying any of these are problems with the cock in question, but a couple of Mike's points reminds me of an unwritten check list I "try" to follow each year before collecting hatching eggs. 
About a month before collection eggs to incubate setup breeding coops and flocks, feed them a good breeder ration with no supplements that will dilute the nutrients and keep unfrozen water in front of them 24/7.
A female chicken will only lay so many eggs in her lifetime.  She can't lay more than what she started with and once they are laid that's it.  The eggs she starts with develop and many to most will get laid during her lifetime, but she doesn't produce any new eggs.  Under normal conditions (no added artificial lighting) she may lay for several years, but if she is subjected to longer days by artificial lighting she will lay her quota of eggs sooner.
Knowing that my hens can only produce a limited number of eggs I supplement sunlight with artificial lighting during the hatching season to get the most eggs when I want them.  During this month prior to collecting hatching eggs I start the "warm" spectrum lighting for 12 hours per day and increase it to 16 hours by the time I start collecting.  Of the visible light spectrum "warm" or red light about 2700K to 3000K is the most beneficial to increase egg production and by using LED blubs I save on electricity.  Don't leave lights on continuously, since that can stress the birds.
This is also the time to trim feathers around the vents on both males and females.  I don't do it because there is necessarily too much fluff, but because I want them to have every advantage possible to produce fertile eggs that produce chicks.  As Mike said, sometimes manure will build up on the feathers in this area could obstruct mating. 
Also, each breeder should have a few drops of Frontline applied, depending on their size.

[Patti Jordan]

Patti, did you check his vent area to make sure it is clean and not obstructed with a ball of manure or excess feathers?    Sometimes it helps to take a scissor and trim away those feathers above and below the vent.  Check for signs of mites at the same time, as a heavy infestation will drain them.  And I would try taking him away from all females for a period of about two weeks.
But Royce is right in that low vitality with no apparent causes may well be inheritable.

I'm not saying any of these are problems with the cock in question, but a couple of Mike's points reminds me of an unwritten check list I "try" to follow each year before collecting hatching eggs. 
About a month before collection eggs to incubate setup breeding coops and flocks, feed them a good breeder ration with no supplements that will dilute the nutrients and keep unfrozen water in front of them 24/7.
A female chicken will only lay so many eggs in her lifetime.  She can't lay more than what she started with and once they are laid that's it.  The eggs she starts with develop and many to most will get laid during her lifetime, but she doesn't produce any new eggs.  Under normal conditions (no added artificial lighting) she may lay for several years, but if she is subjected to longer days by artificial lighting she will lay her quota of eggs sooner.
Knowing that my hens can only produce a limited number of eggs I supplement sunlight with artificial lighting during the hatching season to get the most eggs when I want them.  During this month prior to collecting hatching eggs I start the "warm" spectrum lighting for 12 hours per day and increase it to 16 hours by the time I start collecting.  Of the visible light spectrum "warm" or red light about 3000k is the most beneficial to increase egg production and by using LED blubs I save on electricity.  Don't leave lights on continuously, since that can stress the birds.
This is also the time to trim feathers around the vents on both males and females.  I don't do it because there is necessarily too much fluff, but because I want them to have every advantage possible to produce fertile eggs that produce chicks.  As Mike said, sometimes manure will build up on the feathers in this area could obstruct mating. 
Also, each breeder should have a few drops of Frontline applied, depending on their size.

Thank you that was VERY informative.  I pulled the 2 hens/pullets and rooster and trimmed the fluff from their vent areas, I also stroked the roo before putting him in with the girls.   I'm very proactive to keep my birds wormed and give them preventative parasite treatments using Ivermectin.  I went ahead and did a light spray on the rooster's vent area with Adams Flea and Tick spray that a lot of show breeders in this area use, just in case.   There was no apparent signs of parasites so hopefully trimming the fluff will work.  I put the rooster back in the pen with his girls and he shuffled and strutted around but never mounted one.  Before each breeding season I do remove the roosters spurs, it's been a good 3 months since I did that.  I wonder if he's tender and that's why he doesn't mount ?  The other roosters I de-spur do fine.