Feed cups in small coops

[John W Blehm]

I was using galvanized metal rabbit feeders in small breeding coops for many years.  Sometimes the feed in corners wouldn't flow thru and it would get moldy, so I've switched to some 2 quart DEEP plastic cups.  I only put in enough feed so they don't run out and there is little to no waste due to the depth of the cups. 
I would like to find some like the pint size 3-1/2" X 4-1/2" X 2-1/4" cups, but extra deep to use as feeders on my smaller coops where there isn't room for the 7+ inch long 2 quart cups.

[Beth Curran]

Plastic peanut butter jars work well (we go through a LOT of peanut butter but I'm sure there are similar size/shape containers). Mine are inside the cage so most are just secured with a bungee tie but for some I've drilled holes near the top to hang them with hooks.

[Janie Vila]

Coffee cans work great too!

[Rebecca G Howie]

when the storm was coming I needed a bunch of cups quick and went to dollar store and got 1 pint food storage containers, burned holes and put paracord through them to hang in cages. They stack well for storage, too

[Russ Blair]

Curious how much waste is caused with the cups? My biggest problem is they tend to throw a lot of feed out. Especially since I had to find a new source for my feed. The new feed is a finely ground feed, unfortunately the hammer mill doesn't have the capability to pellet it.

[Mike Gilbert]

I have used the small round containers that mixed nuts or cashews come in, because they have a pretty good lip around the inside of the container.   This helps prevent the birds from throwing a lot of the feed out with their bills, but they still manage to waste a lot if you fill the containers to the top with feed.    I do keep them on the outside of the cage so they can't stand or defecate on/in the containers. 

[John W Blehm]

...but they still manage to waste a lot if you fill the containers to the top with feed.    I do keep them on the outside of the cage so they can't stand or defecate on/in the containers.

That it the advantage I now have with these deep 2 qt feeders, by only putting feed in the bottom 1/8 to 1/4 of the feeders most feed stays in the feeders until eaten and they generally don't run out.  For my setup, hanging feeders on welded wire or 1/8" flat steel stock, the plastic feed/water cups that are designed to hang on wire work well. 

[Rebecca G Howie]

Curious how much waste is caused with the cups? My biggest problem is they tend to throw a lot of feed out. Especially since I had to find a new source for my feed. The new feed is a finely ground feed, unfortunately the hammer mill doesn't have the capability to pellet it.

Russ, as long as I only filled it a little less than half full, it was not too bad. My cages are made in such a way I have to put food inside, so they would flip the cup and spill when scratching. I am thinking of remodeling some cages so that I can put cup on the outside.

I have also taken 1/2 gallon milk jugs and cut them about half way up so they are deeper to prevent the chickens from throwing food out. They work a little better, but no matter how smooth the edge felt to me, it was still hard on their M/B.

[Dennis Heltzel]

I have also taken 1/2 gallon milk jugs and cut them about half way up so they are deeper to prevent the chickens from throwing food out. They work a little better, but no matter how smooth the edge felt to me, it was still hard on their M/B.

I would fear the sharp edge too. If you could get some plastic tubing like they use for aquariums or in hospitals, you could slit it and glue it over the top edge. I had some green silicone tubing that was soft and flexible, but very tough. It would be a pain to cut a slit down the length.

I think that would be at least as good as the rolled edges on the metal cups.

[Beth Curran]

I've used milk jugs for years with no problems. My only complaint is they degrade quickly, becoming brittle and breaking apart. Since they have to be replaced often I only use them in a few pens where I need something bigger.